Seven Fishes

I haven’t had Christmas in Albany for 21 years, the whole length of my marriage, but it was the perfect place for us this year. My first year separated seemed to require not only a little change of scenery for me and the kids, but also lots of family and comfort and familiarity.

We have spent every even year Christmas with my parents and sister and family, but there have been very few with my favorite Aunt Mary and my two cousins Andy and Dom, and now Dom’s lovely wife Jaime and their 9 month old William. A bonus this year was my two great uncles Dan and Dom, who always go to my Aunt’s for Christmas Eve dinner. We couldn’t have selected a more festive, family-rich, happy setting for me and the kids. It felt new enough for Christmas memories not to intrude too much, yet recognizable and traditional in all elements.

Like always, food is prominent in any of my family holidays. All of us make the seven fish Christmas Eve dinner, and this year’s was outstanding, with many cooks involved, and a happy festive table of diners. No matter at whose house we eat Christmas Eve, we make fried calamari using our grandmother’s batter recipe. My cousin Andy is the head chef at Christmas Eves eaten at his mom’s, and he did an awesome job. Each batch gets demolished by us before it can begin to cool on the serving dish.

The fish I love was prepared by Aunt Mary this year: delicate smelts, simply dredged in seasoned corn meal, and fried to a crisp.

And Andy brought a new recipe to the night this time: Baccala fritters. When he suggested making something with salt cod he set off waves of family dissent and a flurry of anxious emails. Some were up for tasting something new. Others had been put-off in years past by the strong salty over-whelming fish. Andy reassured us that it was just one course, and it would be whipped with potatoes and cheese. They were a surprise hit! I made a lemon-garlic aioli for dipping, and Andy shaped the mixture into little globes and fried them. Their globed shape spurred everyone to call them jokingly, Baccala Balls, a name I didn’t find at all appetizing. They disappeared from the platter.

Much lively conversation ensued in the kitchen and living room as we passed these appetizers and shared drinks. My two Great Uncles may be relied upon to fire up a political discussion, relive a famous family story, and sing the tune of a piece my kids say they are playing in orchestra. They provide classic live entertainment, like the Smothers Brothers or Abbot & Costello.

We eventually moved to the dining room table. My son Patrick and I had constructed two dishes of antipasto with cheeses, roasted peppers, marinated artichokes, olives, and three more fish: Italian tuna, anchovies, and sardines that melted in our mouths! And then my mom made her famous linguine with white clam sauce (which I was barely able to eat by then!)

All through dinner, my parents, my aunt and our uncles, made my cousins, the kids, and me laugh at their teasing and their stories. There was much happy and funny remembrance of our grandparents. Each time I glanced at my kids, they were laughing or eating with gusto. And I got to sit right between my two favorite uncles, discussing literature, music and life events.

We all professed to be too full for the cannoli and Christmas cookies, yet one by one we asked for “just a half”. I sat by the tray, cutting them as requested and passing them, watching until only two cannoli remained. The whole time, my cousins and I laughed at the non-stop and over-played assessment ensued by our parents on the merits of the cannoli filling and the crispiness of the shells, and whether they rivaled those made by the family bakery decades ago.

After the meal, my aunt started one of her “round table discussions” to much groaning by my Dad, her brother. But I love them. She asked each person to reveal what they are grateful for in the past year. And I knew just what to say. I am so blessed to have my parents, who have helped me through the most difficult event of my life, and for a family that spreads not just support, but encouragement, laughter, constructive help, and belief. Only one element was missing from that night, my wonderful sister and best friend who has supported me more than anyone. Happy New Year and thank you to my whole family.